In Tulle, Le Local lives up to its name

This Tuesday, when he arrived at the door of his establishment, Kwa-Baluz, in Tull, he found two crates of beets and cauliflower delivered to him by his market gardener. Later, he went around his fridge and his commissary and found a quarter of swordfish and a brooch from the day before.

It is for this morning check-up that Regis Raffi prepares his meals for the day, which will be handwritten on slates that, at noon, are spread amicably among the tables at his restaurant, Le Local. Which fits very well with the Tullist spirit of Treach District.

That day, therefore, at the beginning of the day we will have a cauliflower soup or grated red beetroot and its soft-boiled egg.

“However, I would feel like a prisoner, stuck with a very fixed menu and if I had to prepare the same food for months, I would get bored very quickly,” explains the chef in his prosperous forties who has a holy fear. And those are a zero damage freak. “Nothing annoys me more than throwing away, wasting, wasting. »

We enjoyed fusilli with swordfish, peas and coriander. And what about this apple brioche with the taste of childhood? Missing? Not for everyone, don’t worry…

multiple experiences

Another characteristic of Regis’ personality is his energy, ability to create and reinvent himself. Less than six months after opening his locale, the chef wasted no time making a name for himself in the gastronomic landscape on the banks of the Courage.

To say Regis knocked around is an understatement. It’s true that with him, “it’s got to move, it’s got to shake, it’s got to sweat again” as Clara Luciani sang.

Whether in Paris or Bordeaux, gourmet restaurant, brasserie, bistro, trattoria, pizzeria, fusion cuisine or chef at home: those who have studied in the hotel department of the René-Cassin high school in Tulle, have multiplied their professional experience in all areas of food.

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Local, real

A frenzy that stopped during the health crisis. There, like many French people, confinement allowed Regis and his wife to redefine their life goals for their family. At the beginning of 2022, it’s a big change: leave Paris, return to Corrèze.

Professionally, this is the opportunity that Regis has been waiting for to embark on this great adventure that many chefs aspire to and to give life to the idea that he has kept terribly in a small corner of his head: to create his own business … of course in Corrèze.

So in April 2022 he will be Le Local in Toulouse on the site of a former crêperie. The volunteer firefighter’s self-employed work was inaugurated at the beginning of May.

The concept is based on one word: local. Indeed, while many institutions turn local into an eco-marketing pose as others engage in greenwashing to legitimize their practices, Regis doesn’t cheat, doesn’t mimic, doesn’t tell stories. Here, the term Short Circuit is not an empty term as its meats come from the Pays de Toul countryside: the beef comes from Sainte-Fortunade, the lamb from Chamail and the vegetables from the area. As for fish, bread or wine, he buys them from local artisans and merchants. “A network of suppliers and producers formed quickly,” he admits.

On the plate, Regis revels in fine cuisine, a little more creative and refined on the weekends, the kind of work he likes to do, invoking Asian or exotic inspirations through a celebration of tradition and terroir.

“For example, I like to cook beef in teriyaki or tataki, a Japanese recipe, to think outside the box. I enjoy working with fish like I offer a full red mullet in the wallet. Or a Peruvian-style sea bream”, explains the man who works alone in the kitchen and who has found his partner in the dining room, “a war machine” with the efficient and dynamic Lori.

And, given this promising start and a successful summer season, the Regis can calm down, settle down and settle down, only to incorporate Le Local into the fine gastronomic vitality that has swept over Tulle in recent years.

the product

Caramel Tart from Mademoiselle Angèle. The place is beautiful, elegant, comfortable. We feel good at Mademoiselle Angèle, a new tea house created by Angélique De Sa and which opened its doors last October, place Carnot in Tulle.

In this cozy cocoon in the heart of the city you can enjoy an afternoon tea or hot chocolate, a pastry or even some savory food. We tasted a homemade dessert, a salted butter caramel tart and almond slivers. Success!

Not stuffy or too hard, the dough has a nice savory texture. The caramel is also perfectly calibrated: supple and melty, not too elastic and not too hard, greedy and not too sweet, and whose hint of salt finds a beautiful echo with the perfectly identifiable flavor of the seasoned almond slivers.


For a long time, it has not resonated more with the taste buds of the French. And then, in recent years, boosted by the ceviche (raw fish salad seasoned with lime and spices) movement, Peruvian cuisine has earned a place among the world’s best. Recently, several food magazines have identified Lima and Peru as the gastronomic destination of the moment. Peru stands out thanks to its exceptional Andean products (grains, fruits, roots, etc.), but also thanks to its dishes such as Tirado, Rocoto Relono (chili pepper) or Aji de Gallina (chicken and pepper soup). Note the enthusiasm for new culinary trends such as nikkei cuisine (Japanese and Peruvian fusion) and chifa (a Sino-Peruvian trend).


Main Road 2020. On the other side of the Courage was his wine merchant neighbor Vincent Dubeche, whom Regis trusted to create a relevant, clever wine list that even gave pride of place to local wines. Perhaps we will soon find this cuvée des Grands chemins, produced in Roucas Toumba, Bouletin family estate, Vacqueyras (Vaucluse). Deaf to fashion and trends, Eric Bouletin has remained faithful to his principles of freedom and authenticity, values ​​that can be found in his wines, such as a blend of Grenache, old Carignan and Syrah. An alliance of emblematic grape varieties from the south of the Rhône Valley that typically delivers southern wines with a rich nose of sunshine and red fruit. On the palate, it’s direct, open and immediate, knowing how to play mischievously with power and flexibility, even leaving room for spicy notes to express themselves. A job well done.

Fabrice Varieras

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